If your Phoenix home was built before 1990, the supply lines inside the walls may be galvanized steel, polybutylene, or copper that has been fighting 12 to 20 grains per gallon of mineral-laden water for decades. Galvanized steel corrodes from the inside out, narrowing the bore until water pressure drops and rust-colored water runs from the taps. Polybutylene, common in Valley homes built between 1978 and 1995, micro-fractures at fittings and can split with no warning. Copper holds up longer, but Phoenix hard water pits the interior walls over time, and once pinhole leaks start appearing in one section they tend to follow in others.
At some point the math shifts. A third or fourth spot repair on a galvanized line costs real money and does nothing about the next weak spot two feet away. A repipe replaces the failing material entirely, usually with PEX, and gives you a plumbing system that handles hard water without corroding, scales to the fixtures your home actually has, and does not need another patch for decades. It is a large project, we will not pretend otherwise, but it is also the project that stops the cycle of repairs.
We walk the home, map every supply line, and give you an upfront flat-rate price before any work starts. If a partial repipe covers the problem, we will say so. If the material is failing system-wide, we will show you why. Call 602-560-8989 for a free estimate.
What We Handle
Our Process
Map and Assess
We map every supply line in the home, identify the pipe material, check water pressure at multiple fixtures, and look at past repair history. You will know whether the issue is one bad section or a system-wide material problem, and we will explain the difference before quoting anything.
Plan and Price
We plan the routing, identify access points, and schedule the work in sections so you have running water for most of the project. You get a flat-rate price covering materials, labor, and access cuts. No hourly billing and no change orders for what we already scoped.
Install and Test
New lines run from the main shutoff through walls and attic space, connecting to a manifold or trunk-and-branch layout depending on your home. We pressure-test every joint before closing anything up and verify flow and pressure at every fixture. Access openings need to be closed by a drywall professional after we finish; we can recommend one if you need a referral.
Frequently Asked Questions
Recurring leaks in different spots along the same line, rust-colored water when you first turn on a tap, water pressure that has dropped gradually over years, and visible corrosion on exposed pipe in the garage or utility closet. If your home has galvanized steel or polybutylene supply lines, the material itself is the problem, and spot repairs only buy time. A leak detection visit can confirm whether you are dealing with one isolated failure or a pattern that points to a repipe.
We use PEX (cross-linked polyethylene) for most residential repipes. PEX does not corrode, resists the mineral scale that Phoenix hard water deposits inside copper and galvanized lines, and flexes enough to route through walls and attics with fewer fittings and fewer potential leak points. It also handles freeze events better than rigid pipe, which matters for exposed lines in unheated attic space. We use copper where code requires it, but for supply lines in a Valley home, PEX is the better long-term material.
A partial repipe can often be completed in under a day. A full whole-house repipe typically takes one to three days depending on the size of the home, the number of fixtures, and how the existing lines are routed. We work section by section and only shut water off for the connections, so you have running water for most of the project. Before we start, make sure you know where your main water shutoff is; we will use it during the tie-ins. We will give you a specific timeline during the estimate based on what we find in your home.
We cut access openings in drywall and sometimes ceilings to reach the lines behind them. A typical home needs 10 to 25 openings depending on layout. Drywall patching is outside our scope, so you will need a drywall professional to close and finish those openings after we complete the plumbing. We can recommend one if you need a referral. We are upfront about this so there are no surprises.
Yes. Polybutylene was installed in Valley homes from roughly 1978 through 1995, and it fails by micro-fracturing at fittings and along runs, often without warning. Most homeowners' insurance carriers will not cover water damage from polybutylene failures, and some require replacement before issuing or renewing a policy. If you have grey plastic supply lines with grey or copper crimp rings at the joints, that is polybutylene and it should be replaced.
It depends on how far the problem extends. If pinhole leaks or corrosion are limited to one bathroom or one branch of your supply system, a partial repipe replaces just that section and leaves the rest alone. If the pipe material is galvanized or polybutylene, or if copper leaks are showing up in multiple locations, the material is failing system-wide and a whole-house repipe makes more sense than replacing it in pieces over the next several years. We assess the full system before recommending either path.